In biology autolysis refers to the destruction of a cell through the action of its own enzymes. The term “autolyse” was coined by French baking professor Raymond Calvel. The term derives from the Greek words αυτό (”self”) and λύσις (”splitting”).

For making sparkling wine, autolysis involves killing the yeast and encouraging the breakdown of the cells by enzymes. It is used to give different flavours.

Steve Goodwin is a sparkling winemaker at Seppelt, Australia. He was once interviewed on the cause of the bready, yeasty character found in champagne and other sparkling wine: “most of that is just bottle-developed pinot noir character (rather) than autolysis,” said Steve. His comment contradicts the traditionally accepted view that contact between the wines and autolyzed yeast lees - i.e. broken down yeast cells - is responsible. Curiously, a former Seppelt sparkling maker, Warren Randall, claimed that the bready character came mainly from pinot meunier.

I asked French champagne maker Benoît Gouez (of Dom Perignon) about this. He had no doubt that autolysis causes the yeastiness in champagne, adding that autolysis is expressed quite differently by different grape varieties. “However, the more fruit in a particular wine the less yeast will be evident,” he explained.

Well-known amateur sparkling winemaker, MF (those five years spent as sous-remueur - translation: riddler - at Bolli were not wasted) reckons that the bready character does in fact come from yeast autolysis — rather than aged pinot noir or pinot meunier. His reasoning? Rising bread dough and bread just out of the oven have this smell. Where does it come from? Er, the breakdown of yeast cells after the bread has risen.

Pertinent questions: Has MF ever encountered this yeasty smell in bottles of still pinot noir or pinot meunier of any age? No, never.

Has MF ever encountered this yeast lees character in bottles of bubbly that do not contain either of the pinots, i.e. blanc de blancs made solely from chardonnay? Yes, your Judgeship, often.

If so-called yeast autolysis character comes mainly from pinot noir why do sparkling wine makers waste their time and money leaving fizz in contact with yeast sediment for years, when they could just as easily add more pinot noir to the brew? Beats me, your be-wigged Excellency.

The court will rise…

To help you make up your judgment, here are related articles — at other sites:

• Bubbly tasting notes;
• Matching Champagne and Food;
• Champagne with food;
• Cabbage in Champagne;
• Fredric Koeppel about Champagne.

The domaines, which give it 10 percent of production, also give it some superlative wines, in particular the great Corton-Charlemagne, of which the firm owns 22 acres. Whites are generally regarded as better than the reds here, with new oak barrel fermentation giving considerable richness and complexity.

The reds, traditionally pasteurized before bottling, are more controversial. Some believe the technique ages the wines too fast, while others enjoy the immediate richness and softness. Good reds to follow are the Beaune premier cru Domaine Latour and Chambertin.

Winery:
Louis Latour
18 rue des Tonneliers - Beaune 21200
Phone: 03 80 24 81 00

Aspen Valley Winery

BAHARAV VINEYARD

2370 ROAD 112, cARBONDALE, CO 81623 - (970) 963-9659

CARLSON VINEYARDS

Wines: Reds, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Fruit Wines, Blends

461 24 Road, Palisade, CO 81526 - (970) 464-5554

(East Orchard Mesa: Hwy 6 east from Palisade, turn south on 38 Road, follow yellow centerline 5.5 miles)

Tasting Room Hours: 11-6 daily

Corley Vineyards

COTTONWOOD CELLARS

Wines: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Rielsing, Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Merlot…

5482 Highway 348, Box 940, Olathe, CO 81425 - (970) 323-6224

(Hwy 50 to Olathe, west 3.4 miles on Hwy 348)

Tasting Room Hours: May-Sept: 11-6 Wed-Sat, Oct-April: 11-5 Fri-Sat or by appt.; Closed Jan-Mar. except by appt.

Tasting Room (Pagosa Springs) - 970-264-5105

CANYON WIND CELLARS
Wines: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay

3907 North river Rd., Palisade, CO 81526 - (970) 464-0888

(Old Hwy 6, north side of river, 1 mi. east of Palisade)

Tasting Room Hours: May 1-Oct. 15, 10-4 daily except Sun; Winter by appt.

COLORADO CELLARS WINERYWines: 20 wines, sparkling, port and mead.

3553 E Road, Palisade, CO 81526 - (800) 848-2812

(I-70 Exit 37, Hwy 141 south to C1/2 Rd, east 5.6 miles)

Tasting Room Hours: 9-4, Mon-Fri; Noon-4 Sat

Also produces the Colorado Mountain Vineyards, Rocky Mountain Vineyards & Orchard Mesa Wine Company brands.

CONFRE CELLARS AND ROCKY MTN. MEADERY

Wines: Honey Wine (Mead), Fruit-blended Honey Wines

3701 G Road, Palisade, CO 81526 - (970) 464-7899

(I-70 exit 42, south to Hwy 6, west 1/2 mile)

Tasting Room Hours: 10-5, daily

GRANDE RIVER VINEYARDS

MINTURN CELLARS

Wines: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, cabernet Franc, Chardonnay

107 Williams Street, Minturn, CO 81645 - (970) 827-4065

(I-70 exit 171, between Vail and Beaver Kreek, Hwy 24 south 2 miles.

Next to Chilli-Willy’s and the Minturn Country Club)

Tasting room Hours: June-Aug Noon-6 daily - light lunches served;

Sept-Oct Noon-6 Thurs-Sat; Dec-April Noon-6 Wed-Sat;

Closed Nov & May

MOUNTAIN SPIRIT WINERY, LTD.

Wines: Merlot, Chardonnay, Fruit Wines, Blends

15750 County Road 220 Salida, CO 81201 - (719) 539-1175

Winery tours by appt

Tasting room: 134 F Street, Historic Downtown Salida

Tasting Room Hours: 10-5, Mon-Sat, art gallery & gifts

PIKES PEAK VINEYARDS WINERY

Wines: Merlot, Cabernet, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay

3901 Janitell Road, Colorado Springs, CO 80906

(719) 576-0075

(I-25 exit 138, east on Circle Drive to Janitell, turn right, 1 mile south)

Tasting Room Hours: Noon-5 daily, gourmet dining by reservation

PLUM CREEK CELLARS

Wines: Merlot, Chardonnay, Cabernet Souvignon, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Riesling Ice wine

3708 G Road, Palisade, CO 81526 - (970) 464-7586

(I-70 exit 42, south to Hwy 6, west 1/2 mile)

Tasting Room Hours: May-Oct, 9:30-6, daily; Nov-Apr, 10-5

ROCKY MOUNTAIN MEADERY

Wines: Honey Wine (Mead), Fruit-blended Honey wines, Fortified Wines.

3701 G Road, Palisade, CO 81526 - (970) 464-7899

(I-70 exit 42, south to Hwy 6, west 1/2 mile, on left)

Tasting Room Hours: 10-5, daily

ROCKY HILL WINERY

Wines: Red Mountain Merlot, Chardonnay, Black Canyon Cabernet, Cabernet Franc, Gewurztraminer, Cherry, San Juan Gold, Merlot, Ski Bunny Blush, Muscat Canelli

18380 Hwy 550, Montrose, CO 81401 - (970) 249-3765

(2 miles south of Montrose on Hwy 550, on east side of Hwy 550)

Tasting Room Hours: Summer, 10-6, daily; Winter, noon-6, Noon-Sat; noon-4, Sun

ST. KATHRYN CELLARS

Wines: Merlot, Chardonnay, Blends, Fruit wines

888 Elberta Ave, Palisade, CO 81526 - (970)-464-9288 (I-70 at exit 42)

Tasting room Hours: Summer, 9-7, daily; Spring/Fall, 10-6; Winter, 10-5

STONEY MESA WINERY

Wines: Merlot, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mead

1619 2125 Dr, Cedaredge, CO 81413 - (970) 856-7572

(North on Hwy 65 to 11th Ave, west 1 mile to 2125 Dr, south one block)

Tasting room Hours: Mar-Oct, 11-5, daily; Nov-Feb, 12-4, Fri-Sun; or by appt.

SHADOW MOUNTAIN CELLARS

Wines: Sauvignon blanc, Chardonnay, Reserve Chardonnay, Merlot

1708 East Lincoln Avenue, #1, Fort Collins, CO 80524 - (970) 493-7345

(From I-25: west Hwy 14 to Link Lane, north to East Lincoln Ave, right on East
Lincoln Avenue)
Tasting Room Hours: by appt

Surface Creek, Colorado

TRAIL RIDGE WINERY
Wines: Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Blends, Fruit Wines
4113 West Eisenhower Blvd (US Hwy 34), Loveland, CO 80537 - (970) 635-0949

(7 miles west of I-25, 3 miles west of Loveland)
Tasting Room Hours: Summer, 10-5 daily (closed Tuesday);
Spring/Fall, noon-5 Fri-Sat

TERROR CREEK WINERY

Wines: Gewurztraiminer, Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir

1750 4175 Dr, Paonia, CO 81428 - (970) 527-3484

(From Paonia: 1 mile east of Hwy 133, north on 4175 Dr. to end)

Tasting Room Hours: 11-5 Fri-Sat or by appt

Another site shows information about the Colorado appellation.

Champagne wines should be kept in a cool, dark place away from heat, light, vibrations and severe temperature variations. Unlike the best wines from Bordeaux or California, Champagne wines are ready for consumption when they are shipped to the market. However, some wine lovers also enjoy cellaring their Champagnes for a few extra years.

What is the best way to chill Champagne?

Before opening, chill the wine well, but do not freeze it. Champagne is best chilled by placing the bottle in a bucket filled with ice and water for 30-40 minutes or in the vegetable bin of the refrigerator for several hours.
Lovers of (French) Champagne always keep a bottle there for inspiration, unexpected guests and homey dinners.

How do I open a bottle of Champagne?

The pressure in a bottle of Champagne is equivalent to that of a tire of a double-decker bus, about ninety pounds per square inch. Slant the bottle at a 45 degree angle away from guests. Put a thumb on the cork, untwist and loosen the wire muzzle. Grasp the cork firmly, twist the bottle slowly and let the pressure help push out the cork. Allow a light and merry pop.

How should I serve Champagne?

Champagne is best served in tall flute or tulip glasses, at a temperature of 42-47 degrees Fahrenheit. Tiny bubbles will rise in a continuous stream. When serving, pour a small quantity of wine into each glass and allow it to settle. Then fill each glass two-thirds full. Victorian saucer-shaped glasses are best kept for the service of sherbet or ice cream.

How much Champagne will I need?

For a Champagne apéritif at cocktail hour, allow one bottle for every three or four guests. When served at a meal, count on one bottle for every two or three people. And for the traditional Champagne toast to the bride, one bottle can serve six to ten people.

Related articles: the regions that produce Champagne and the red grapes that go into Champagne.

Articles on other quality websites: Champagne tasting.

Obviously a vintage is a concept: it cannot taste bad. The point here is to indicate that vine growers have had more problems this year than previous years. The quality of the wines very much depends on the vine growing — every year but this year even more so. This is the year when the serious, talented winemaker makes a big difference.

The Austrian wine marketing board have published their official summary of the vintage so far, calling it ‘the winemaker’s year’. In the words of Jancis Robinson this means that ‘there have been quite a few hurdles for them to overcome - in the vineyard perhaps even more than in the winery’.

In France, the cool summer of 2007 affected everyone and the September weather saved some grapes. Micro-climates came into play and the savvy vigneron had to carefully determine the date of harvest. Rot and mildew was widespread. Keeping the grapes on the vines was a gamble many winemakers did not make.

Côte d’Or, Burgundy

Reports Bill Nanson: ‘The vintage will be as heterogeneous as the approaches and the quality of grapes and sorting’. ‘Grapes from Latricières-Chambertin needed quite some work (just like in 2004)’.
Said Louis-Michel Liger-Belair: ‘we made a hard triage’.
Reports Martine Saunier, California importer of some growers in Burgundy and the Rhône Valley: ‘beginning 25 August, the weather warmed up and the sun finally came out. Temperatures rose to 25°-30° C. The grapes started turning red immediately’.

More reports

I have made complementary overviews:

• Oregon, Burgundy and Bordeaux vignerons explain harvesting and winemaking;
• Reports of bad grape growing conditions in the USA, Germany, France and Italy.

Inside reports on the 2007 harvest season come from:

• Thomas Houseman at Anne Amie Vineyards, Oregon (harvest skewed),
• Vincent Fritzsche, in Oregon too (winemaking skewed),
• Château Palmer, a bordeaux estate.

Go have a look at pictures of the impressive harvesting machine at Château Lacayot (with French captions).

Jeremy Seysses of Domaine Dujac excellently explained how grapes are turned into wine a year ago.

It is a little early to assess the quality of the vintage. Bear in mind that vintage quality is a complex concept. Nevertheless it is possible that the quality will go down for many French wines made in 2007. (I feel this while reading a few French ‘vignerons’ report on their ‘vendanges’.)

We already know that the volumes produced will be low in many places. This is a problem for the revenues of the producers. This is not a question on the quality of the wines. The reports of low volume come from Oregon, California, France (the article is in French), Italy.

Regions which produce as much wine this year as the previous year include Bordeaux.

It is urgent that you consider making your own wine from bought grapes. Or wait for next year!

On this website here is a list of red wine varietals.
Here are articles on other quality websites about: white wine varietals.

White wine grapes

Chardonnay

It is currently one of the most popular if not the most popular dry white wine variety in the world. It is planted in almost every wine producing country and is one of the easiest varieties to grow. Chardonnay has only begun to gain in popularity and importance in South Africa in the last ten years. Chardonnay generally benefits from oak and is especially complex when it is barrel fermented as well as barrel aged. However, over-oaking has been a common fault of some the first Chardonnnays that were produced in the Western Cape. Winemakers in the Western Cape are now careful to not let oak overpower the elegant and zesty citrus characteristics of the wine.

Chenin blanc

This grape is the Cape’s most popular white variety with about thirty percent of her vineyards producing Chenin Blanc. Chenin Blanc in South Africa is also referred to as “Steen”. In South Africa it produces a wide range of wines from sweet to dry, including sparkling and still wines. Its dry wines are fresh and fruity and Chenin Blanc’s sweet wines and botrytis dessert wines are becoming more fashionable.

Colombard

This variety in South Africa makes fresh wines with crisp acidity. They often possess tropical fruit aromas and are a good companion to seafood. Colombard isalso used in South Africa for brandy production.

Rhine riesling

This variety, from German clones, is also referred to as “weisser Riesling” in South Africa. With a little age this wine can develop a resinous or oily character that is accepted as desirable in Europe. It is more complex and scented than Cape Riesling.

Cape riesling

This variety is thought to be related to crouchen blanc a French variety used for table wine production. It tends to be steely and can develop a pleasant honeyed flavour with some maturation.

Sauvignon blanc

South Africa has recently received great attention as a world class producer of Sauvignon Blanc. There are many microclimates in South Africa ideally suited to thegrowing of this variety. The South African Sauvignon Blancs tend to be dry and grassy. Its plantings have increased since the mid 1980’s and continue to do so.

Red wine grapes

Cabernet sauvignon

Most of the great red wines of Bordeaux and some of the finest wines of the New World are based on cabernet sauvignon. It is often blended with Cabernet Franc and Merlot and its flavour is reminiscent of blackcurrants or cedarwood. It demands aging in small oak barrels, and the best wines require several years of bottle age to reach their peak.

Cabernet franc

This variety possesses qualities similar to those of Cabernet Sauvignon, although they are a little less pronounced in cabernet franc. It is an important part of Cape blends and is often blended with cabernet sauvignon.

Cinsaut

Formerly known as Hermitage in the Western Cape of South Africa, it produces light wines and is most often used as a blending wine to increase accessibility at an early age. Cinsaut is one of the parents of Pinotage.

Merlot

This variety takes second place to Cabernet Sauvignon in most premium red wine blends. Merlot is fragrant and usually softer than Cabernet Sauvignon. It also shows best with oak maturation, but usually requires less bottle maturation before it is ready to drink. Some believe that the growing conditions in South Africa do not require Merlot to be blended in with Cabernet. Merlot bottled as a varietal is becoming more and more commonplace in South Africa.

Pinotage

It is a unique South African grape made from a cross of pinot noir and cinsaut. It was developed locally in 1926. It is hardy in the vineyard and generally produces a wine that is full bodied with good fruit flavours and a distinctive spiciness, but often referred to as possessing a “sweetish acetone” flavour. Previously thought to be early maturing, it is now believed that pinotage benefits from extended maturation.

Pinot noir

The grape from which complex and elegant wines are made in Burgundy There are several new vineyards in South Africa making pinot noir that show great promise. The Pinot Noir wines in South Africa are clean and lively with the flavour of ripe cherries.

Shiraz

This grape is also known as Syrah. It makes a soft and rich wine often characterized by smoky and chocolaty aromas. It matures faster than cabernet and is sometimes blended with it to speed accessibility.

Zinfandel

This variety probably originated in Southern Italy as the Primitivo grape. It is planted by only a few Cape wineries, and the first examples have been very good, especially when they receive enough oak maturation.

Selected websites show other articles on: South African wines.