Archive for the ‘French wine’ Category

Wine harvest is over worldwide

Friday, October 26th, 2007

In the Northern Hemisphere most of the last wine grapes were picked by the 20th of October. I already reported on how the harvest started early. So the harvest period is about two months long.

Todd uses a PulseAir system to aerate a two ton fermenter of estate pinot noir, by Anne Amie Vineyards, OregonInside reports on the 2007 harvest season come from:

Go have a look at pictures of the impressive harvesting machine at Château Lacayot (with French captions).

Jeremy Seysses of Domaine Dujac excellently explained how grapes are turned into wine a year ago.

It is a little early to assess the quality of the vintage. Bear in mind that vintage quality is a complex concept. Nevertheless it is possible that the quality will go down for many French wines made in 2007. (I feel this while reading a few French ‘vignerons’ report on their ‘vendanges’.)

We already know that the volumes produced will be low in many places. This is a problem for the revenues of the producers. This is not a question on the quality of the wines. The reports of low volume come from Oregon, California, France (the article is in French), Italy.

Regions which produce as much wine this year as the previous year include Bordeaux.

It is urgent that you consider making your own wine from bought grapes. Or wait for next year!

47 white wine varietals

Friday, October 19th, 2007

Here is a list of vine varieties with a description of the white wines made from them.

Variety
Origin
Description
Aligoté French Poor man’s Burgundy. Pale, light, crisp wine. Not for ageing.
Alvarinho Portugal Produces Vinho Verde, very crisp, light with a slight prickle.
Auxerrois French Acidic, very dry and full-bodies, Chablisesque.
Bacchus German Silvaner, Riesling and Müller-Thurgau cross. Flowery, light Muscat bouquet,
low acidity. Used mainly for blending.
Bual Madeira Sweet full-bodies fortified wine, burnt amber colour, fig-like bouquet.
Chardonnay French Ranges from crisp, apple-like flavours in cool climates to caramel, pineapple
and tropical tones in warm areas. Buttery, toasty or clove-like finish.
Ages well, usually in oak.
Chasselas E.
Europe
Light, crisp wine with delicate bouquet in Switzerland. Rather insipid elsewhere.
Chenin
Blanc
French Honeyed, high-acid wines in the Loire. Lots of fruit. Ages many years. California
model is much softer and fruitier.
Colombard French (French Colombard) Originally a cognac grape, now grown in California for soft,
flowery wines.
Emerald
Riesling
California High-yielding Muscadelle, Riesling cross. Aromatic, soft, fruity.
Fumé
Blanc
Californian name for Sauvignon Blanc or Sauvignon/Sémillon blend. Fruitier and
less grass than Loire model.
Folle
Blanche
French Once a major grape in Cognac. High acid, not much character.
Furmint Hungary Principal grape of Tokay. Can be dry, off-dry or sweet. Apple or apricot and toffee bouquet, depending on style.
Gewürztraminer Italy (Traminer)
Spicy, exotic, rose petal and lychee bouquet. Can be dry (Alsace) or sweet (Germany, California).
Grüner Veltliner Austria Fresh, lively, fruity, dry wine for drinking young as in the “new” wine, Heurige.
Hárslevelü Hungary Spicy, full-bodied, aromatic. Good for sweet wines.
Jacquère French Light, very dry and brisk wine from Savoie.
Kerner German Red
Trollinger, Riesling cross. Spicy, fruity wines with good acidity.
Malvasia Greek Produces lusciously sweet dessert wines in warm climates and crisp dry ones in northern areas. The grape of the sweet Madeira, Malmsey.
Marsanne French Deep-coloured, high-alcohol wines blended with the more delicate Roussanne in the Rhône.
Morio-Muscat German Silvaner, Pinot Blanc cross. Full-bodied, fruity with spicy bouquet.
Müller-Thurgau German Riesling, Silvaner cross (or two clones of Riesling). Less acidic than Riesling,
soft and fruity. Lacks ageing potential.
Muscadelle French Perfumey grape used to add bouquet to some white Bordeaux (Sauvignon and Sémillon).
Muscadet French (Melon de Bourgogne) Light, pale, racy wines with lively acidity from the Loire.
Muscat Greek Perfumed, raisiny bouquet with a characteristic spiciness in dessert wines. Can also
be made dry as in Alsace and Australia.
Palomino Spanish The grape of sherry. Neutral wine, low acidity.
Pedro Ximenez Spanish A very sweet white wine used in sherry, thought to be Riesling.
Picolit Italian Dessert wine grape of Friuli. Deep coloured, rich, slightly bitter.
Pinot Blanc French (Pinot Bianco/Weissburgunder) Relative of Chardonnay but with less character and ageing potential. Best from Alsace.
Pinot Gris E. Europe (Pinot Grigio, Ruländer) Full-flavoured, elegant wines capable
of ageing.
Riesling German (Johannisberg Riesling, Rhine or White Riesling)
Finest German variety, capable of making a range of wines from steely dry to toffee-sweetness. Floral nose, keen acidity.
Rkatsiteli E. Europe All-purpose grape producing ordinary table wines, dessert wines and fortified wines.
Sacy French The name suggests it all. Frisky, tart wine from Chablis region.
Savagnin French Makes Sherry-style vin jaune in the Jura region.
Sauvignon Blanc French Makes grassy, gooseberry, smoky wines in the Loire and accompanies Sémillon
in dry and sweet wines of Bordeaux. California model is rounder and fruitier and fig-like.
Scheurebe German Silvaner, Riesling cross. Aromatic, fruity with pronounced acidity. Best in dessert style.
Sémillon French Honey and apricot bouquet when affected by Botrytis (see page 22). Blended with Sauvignon Blanc for dry Bordeaux. Lacks acidity.
Sercial Portugal Produces the driest, lightest style of Madeira. Good acidity. Ages well.
Seyval Blanc French Hybrid.
Makes dry wines with a grassy, green plum flavour. Does not age well.
Silvaner Austrian Mild, neutral wine with good body. Useful for blending.
Trebbiano Italian (Ugni Blanc, St. Emilion) Pale colour, high acid, medium-body, shy bouquet.
Verdelho Spain Produces off-dry Madeira and soft, nutty table wines.
Verdicchio Italian Crisp, dry wines with a hint of bitterness.
Vidal French Hybrid.
Good fruit and acidity. Can range in styles from tart Sauvignon Blanc to Late Harvest and Icewine.
Viognier French Rich, elegant, full-bodied, floral-peachy wine especially in the Rhône.
Capable of ageing.
Viura Spanish (Macabeo)
Fruity aromatic wines with high acidity capable of wood ageing.
Welschriesling French (Riesling Italico, Laskiriesling, Olaszriesling)
Floral, zesty, versatile but not as elegant as Johannisberg (White or Rhine) Riesling.

On this website here is a list of red wine varietals.
Here are articles on other quality websites about: white wine varietals.

Anjou wines: an overview

Tuesday, October 16th, 2007

Anjou is a sprawling region that begins near Chinon and rambles west along the southern bank of the Loire for over fifty miles. Angers, the area’s major city, is a worthy place for an afternoon visit. The main attraction is a remarkable artwork dating from the 1300’s called the Apocalypse Tapestry. It has been recently installed in a stunning exhibition hall at the Chateau d’Angers - a formidable medieval structure that dominates the city’s center. Your Michelin Guide will give you the details, but let us state: for anyone even vaguely interested in the arts, the Apocalypse Tapestry is mandatory.

Skeleton with arms of René d'Anjou, by pantuflaThe wines of Anjou are the most diverse and satisfying of the Loire. Anjou is a godsend for afficionados of sweet white wine, there are numerous small producers making delicious, balanced and potentially long-lived Grains Nobles Chenin Blancs. I visited farmers with holdings of four or five oak barrels of richly sweet Coteaux du Layon mulling away in the backshed. Some of these vignerons, like Jo Pithon and Patrick Baudouin, and Philippe Delesvaux quickly sell out their wines.

The ‘95 and ‘96 vintages at well-known domaines such as Domaine des Baumard produced brilliant sweet and demi-sec wines - in copious amounts. Baumard’s most important vineyard, in the microclimate called Quarts-de-Chaume, produces an exotic sweet Chenin that has to be tasted to be believed. In relation to its counterparts in Alsace and Sauternes, Quarts-de-Chaume is both underrated and underpriced.

By way of contrast, we found a manifestation of the eccentric and grand side of the wine industry at Chateau des Fesles; this vast property was owned by the highly regarded Boivin family and was sold in 1991 to the legendary (in France, anyway) Gaston Lenôtre. Lenôtre, a renowned pastry chef and restaurant entrepreneur, attempted to create a wine merchandising empire. He amassed a wonderful portfolio of vineyards - but four years and a gazillion francs later, he ditched them. The sugary remnants of Lenôtre’s pastry museum were still scattered throughout the winery’s main building and tasting rooms when we first visited there in 1996. Now, it has been magnificently restored by the Bordeaux-based Germain group, who have effectively rejuvenated Chateau des Fesles’ venerable status.

This estate has holdings in the appellation of Bonnezeaux, another tiny and undervalued source of delicious, earthy, sweet Layon; along with Quarts-de-Chaume, it is of cru status; to qualify as Bonnezeaux, wines are required to reach 230 grams of natural sugar. In other parts of the Layon, recent law allows for any vigneron in the Layon to use the designation Selections de Grains Nobles (S.G.N.) provided they declare their intent before the harvest and the wines are judged to be of natural sugar equalling or exceeding 298 grams of sugar per liter. The application of this label is becoming popular, but some producers still print vin liquoreux (critics of this style of densely sweet wine discuss the “Selections de Grains Nobles” designation disparagingly. As one producer of the nervier Bonnezeaux put it: “With alcohol and sugars levels so high, they should just call liquor, liquor”).

Vendange tardive devotees will discover a rich cache in the Anjou, but fans of dry whites should visit Savennières, a small appellation to the north of the Loire river - just across from the Coteaux du Layon.

Anyway, there is much to discover in Anjou and here at Cellarer.com I try to describe a few of the highlights. Please read my article on Loire sweet wines and subscribe to the site feed to be noticed of the upcoming article on Savennières.
For details on the classification and the geography The Wine Doctor is a good resource.

Cornas, development, and international style

Monday, September 24th, 2007

Location: France, Rhône Valley, Northern Rhône, Cornas

The Rhône Valley is beautiful. Currently the Cornas part is threatened to be uglified. In France, the entity for building authorisations is the municipality. So the debate should grow locally during the campaign for the next municipal elections in March 2008.

Anyway here is a primer on a prominent local grower: Jean-Luc Colombo.

Jean-Luc Colombo in his Les Ruchets vineyard, by Winekakis.comFrom his beautiful farm high up behind the village of Cornas, Jean-Luc Colombo manages to be a domaine owner, a negociant and a wine consultant for many of the most important producers in the region.

His vines, forming Vignobles Jean-Luc Colombo, occupy 55 acres in the appellations of Cornas and Côtes du Rhône. The benchmark from these vineyards is the Cornas Les Ruchets, a powerful syrah with 45 percent new-wood aging. A recent addition to the range is La Louvée which is a special vineyard selection.

As a negociant, Colombo keeps the wine he buys in the producer’s cellar rather than bringing it to his own.

Jean-Luc and his wife, Anne, founded Le Centre Oenologique des Côtes du Rhône in 1984. As a consultant, his influence, particularly in the use of new wood for aging, has been considerable in the Rhône valley. His winemaking style is international.

Winery:
Pied La Vigne
Cornas
Phone: +33 (0) 4 75 40 36 09