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January 12th, 2009

I repeatedly show to this blog’s readers that there are marvellous wine websites elsewhere. Here is a sample of recent articles I wish I would have written.

Next week I’ll post the quarterly contest of the best wine websites. Cellarer Planet shows the latest posts of selected food bloggers — with hourly updates.

Wine growing in Austria

May 20th, 2008

Every year, about 300 hectoliters of wine are produced in the world. (The hectoliter metric unit of capacity or volume used in dry measure and equal to 100 liters or 2.8378 bushels.) Of this total, Austria’s share accounts for less than one percent.

Vineyard in Wachau, AustriaAs a small wine-producing country, Austria strives to produce only high quality wines. In order to do this, four components are necessary: soil, climatic conditions, the right selection of vines and the person producing the wine.

THE SOIL

Soil leaves its imprint on wine. It helps determine the character and the quality. There are two main variations of soil: airy light-textured and heavy compacted textured.

A sandy, light soil, such as loess, becomes warm very quickly and – with proper irrigation – contributes to top-quality wine.

Heavy, clayey soils tend to hold water well, moisture is retained: a plentiful harvest is usually yielded, producing strong, full-bodied wines. The light and sandy soils (including primary rock) helps create lean, yet elegant and fruity wines.

Austrian vineyards have a wide variety of soils. Loess is predominant in the Weinviertel and in the Donautal. Around Kerms, Langenlois and in the Wachau, primary rock is most plentiful. Limestone strongly defines the Thermenregion. Types of soils found in Burgenland are varied, with everything from slate (in Leithagebirge), clay and marl to pure sand. Volcanic and brown soils (in the Kloch area) are distinctive for the Steiermark.

CLIMATE

The vine growth cycle, from budbreak in the spring until the leaves fall in autumn, last approximately 200 days, depending on the variety. Warm, sunny summers and long, mild fall days are typical for most of Austria’s wine regions. Yearly rainfall in the east averages 400 milliliters; in the Steiermark, it can climb to more than 800 ml.

Two main influences on climatic conditions in the regions are the Danube river, which reflects warmth and acts as a temperature regulator, and the vast Neusiedlersee lake, whose shores, in the late fall, are filled with ripened grapes that will make the incomparable Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese wines.

Altitude is also a key factor. Most Austrian vineyards are planted 200 metres above sea level. However, in Niederosterreich, vineyards are cultivated at a height of up to 400m. The Steiermark boasts the highest wine villages, with Kitzeck and St. Andra in the Sausal area, where grapes are grown between 540-560m above sea level.

The wine growing regions are all found in terperate climate zones – at a latitude of approximately 47-48 degrees north. This is comparable to the province of Burgundy in France.

THE VINES

Austria has a plethora of varieties, each in harmony with their soil and climate conditions. Of significance are approximately 20 white and 10 red varieties. Austria’s vineyards comprise 77% white varieties; 23% are red – an increase in recent years. The most noble variety is riesling. The variety currently in fashion in the USA is grüner veltliner.

THE WINEMAKERS

The winemakers, or, as they are sometimes called in Austria, the wine hewer, decides which types of grapes they will grow. A crucial criterion for achieving a high quality harvest is the low yield.

There are methods that can help attain this result, such as little fertilisation and thinning both after blossoming and before picking. For Qualitatswein, Austria’s wine law has set a maximum of 9,000 kg per hectare.

When it comes to processing the packed grapes, only one thing matters- good care, This means light application of pressure during pressing, and a concentrated influence on the whole vinification process.

Here is an extensive series on wine-growing in Austria.

The 6 major white varieties in Germany

February 5th, 2008

Here is an overview of the German varieties of white grapes.

Riesling grapesRiesling

It is the finest and best known of Germany’s white varieties. Its small grapes ripen late – in October or November. This long, slow ripening period allows it to develop more aroma and a harmonious balance.
Wine: fragrant, fine-fruit bouquet; lively, pronounced acidity; piquant taste; potential for ageing because of racy acidity.

Müller-Thurgau

Müller-Thurgau grapesIt is now the most widely planted grape in Germany (23% of total vineyard area). It is a crossing of two varieties, probably Riesling and Silvaner, developed in 1882 iin Geisenheim, Germany, by Prof. H. Müller from Thurgau, Switzerland. The grapes ripen early, usually in September.
Wine: flowery bouquet; milder acidity than Riesling; slight muscat flavour; best consumed while fresh and young.

Silvaner grapesSilvaner

It is a traditional variety. Its medium-sized, juicy grapes ripen somewhat earlier than Riesling.
Wine: neutral bouquet; mild acidity; full-bodied, pleasant wines; best enjoyed while young.

Kerner

Kerner grapesIt is a popular new cross, developed from Trollinger
(a red variety) and Riesling (a white variety). It has thick-skinned, early-ripening grapes.
Wine: light muscat bouquet; racy, lively acidity; similar to Riesling.

Scheurebe grapesScheurebe

It is another new crossing — this time of Silvaner and Riesling.
Wine: lively acidity; bouquet and taste reminiscent of black currents.

Ruländer

Ruländer/Grauburgunder grapes(Grauburgunder, pinot grigio, pinot gris) is
among the best varieties in Germany. It ripens at the same time as Silvaner.
Wine: robust, full-bodied, smooth, soft, and full on the palate.

Other varieties…

There are other white wine varieties in Germany that are just as interesting and which
you should try: the fruity, flowery Bacchus, the light, mild Gutedel, the racy, neutral Elbling, or the Morio-Muskat, with its flowery bouquet and pronounced flavour.

As a complement you can read the article on the German wine regions or an overview of the major German varieties of red grapes.

The wine regions of Germany

December 3rd, 2007

Germany has 13 separate wine growing regions, each of which produces its own style of wine, often from the same varieties. Generally, the lightest and most elegant German wines are produced in the Mosel-Sarr-Ruwer and Ahr regions.
Slightly fuller wines are made inthe Mittelrhein, Nahe, Rheingau, Rheinhessen, Saale-Unstrut, while the fullest German wines tend to come from the regions of Pfalz, Hessische Bergstrasse, Sachsen, Württembery and Baden.

Wine regions Major wine types Soil type Wine style
Ahr Red/Rose:
Spätburgunder,
Portugieser
volcanic slate light, fruity
Mosel-Saar-Ruwer White: Riesling slate-covered slopes,
rich in minerals
elegant, delicate,
racy
Nahe White: Riesling, Müller-Thurgau, Silvaner loess, loam, quartzite, porphyry fruity, crisp, stylish
Pfalz White: Riesling,
Scheurebe, Gewürztraminer,Muller-Thurgau, Kerner, Silvaner
Red/Rose: Spätburgunder, Portugieser
loam, weathered limestone full, aromatic, round
Hessische
Bergstrasse
White: Riesling,
Müller-Thurgau
loess elegand, fruity,
good acidity
Baden White: Ruländer
(Pinot Gris), Müller-Thurgau,
Gewürztraminer, Riesling

Red/Rose:Spätburgunder
loess, loam, volcanic
soil
full, aromatic,
spicy
Sachsen White: Müller-Thurgau,
Weissburgunder, Gewürtraminer
variety of soil,
(sand, porphyry, loam)
dry, crisp, distinctive


Selected websites show other articles on: Germany wines.
This blog also has a post that gives an overview of the German red varieties and another with an overview of the German white varieties.